![]() ![]() External wiring needs to be routed under the snap on headlamp cap. Installation is more work and requires an external connection to the battery to power the external ballasts. They look really good and pass the acid test, that is when you pull up behind another car in full daylight even if it’s dirty you can see clearly the inner and outer rings. A 6000K (Nice crisp pure white) HID 35 watt lamp outputs about 2.5 times more than the 35 watt stock halogen lamp. There is a YouTube install video for this which is very helpful except I totally disagree with not bothering to disconnect the battery or handling the HID bulbs with anything other than gloves. Apart from that the kit was well presented and represented much better value for money than the LED kit at around $100.00 cheaper with many more parts. The seller from Alpine MSS was co-operative on this and assured in future these would be soldered. It turned out this was wire wrapped and not soldered on my install and another one I did. There is a “dummy load resistor” on these to stop lamp fail errors. Wiring also has to be tucked under the Snap-On headlight cover cap. HID Version: More work fitting and require fitting of an external relay plus two ballasts. It’s hard to get a good light output on the M3 due to the design of the headlights unlike other cars like Audi that have front facing individual LEDs Look great around dusk but have fairly low output as a true daylight running light. Not very bright, not much more than stock if that. They also draw very little power compared to the regular 35 watt H8 lamp and are around the same brightness. At 10 watts they run fairly cool and an LED has a very long life expectancy. Relatively easy to fit, are completely enclosed in the headlamp enclosure and require no external connection to the battery supply. The manufacturer was very keen to co-operate and committed to improving. There was no in- line fusing on these which is a real worry if they fail short. The wire quality was not what you expect hook up wire rather than silicone coated high temperature wire. The controller module failed on over temperature constantly and the wiring had to be extended enough to be able to place this at the bottom of the headlamp housing where it was much cooler. I did not like the wire harness that came with this model and had to completely rework it. They plug straight in to the factory connector which goes to a small controller, then to the LED H8 assembly. This was a 10 watt LED mounted rear facing on an aluminium block and a bolt on heatsink. Very easy to fit, although the AngeliBright was a bit of a pain with the heatsinks. There are pros and cons for both, so I’ll list what I found and would be very interested to hear of others with experiences of either. As I’ve mentioned before my background is Electronic Engineering so this was a fairly easy install for me. I’ve had both now and am running the HID’s I got from Alpine MSS, USA also had a set of AngeliBright version 3 -10 watt LEDs. Might have to code the FEM_Body module instead of the CAS/FRM.Hi Everyone, thought this topic may be of interest as Angel eyes seem to be quite a common add on and quite easy to do. You may need to move some pins around.ĮDIT: If this is for an F10, the modules may be different. The headlight main beam, high beam, angel eyes, and turn signals will work. Then code the affected modules to default using expert mode in NCS. Then put in the xenon option code only.not the adaptive one. If you just want to upgrade to xenon without self leveling and adaptive, you will need to code the car by editing the VO and taking out the halogen option code. As well as installing the sensors themselves. You also need to run a harness to the drivers side front and passenger rear wheel wells for the self leveling sensors. In addition to all this hardware, you will need to run new wiring harnesses from the FRM and to the headlights for self leveling and adaptive to work. You need SMC II modules, ballasts, D1S bulbs (or whatever bulb type your headlamp uses), etc. You also need all the xenon and adaptive components in addition to the headlight housings. This module will need to be coded into the car. You will need a new FRM compatible with AHL. To do a full retrofit with self leveling and adaptive will run a few thousand. ![]()
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